Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Today Richard and I set out for Xiangfan City to visit the Children’s Welfare Institute (orphanage) and see Ava’s “finding spot.” The fast train would take us into Northwest Hubei Province about 280 miles from where we are staying in Wuhan. On the way Richard filled my ears with much Chinese history, culture and politics while my eyes scanned the landscape that quickly transformed from industrial city to rural farmland dotted with white cranes and solo farmers walking the fields with water buffalo (a/k/a Chinese plow engine). We arrived in 2 hours and were met at the train station by the orphanage director Mr. Zhou and some associates. The schedule was to visit the orphanage, Ava’s finding spot, have some lunch and learn about Xiangfan City.

A small entourage including a PR woman and a video cameraman greeted us at the orphanage. Mr. Zhou explained that the orphanage is home to about 100 children ranging from infant to 18. Many of the older children have special needs like cerebral palsy and downs syndrome. The facility is four stories high. Passing through the entrance we walked into a dank naturally lit concrete stairwell to the second floor. I felt the worn uneven stairs under foot as the sound of the driving rain echoed through the area. The infants and toddlers (ages 1-3) are housed in two adjacent square 20x20 windowless rooms. A multi-colored rubber interlocking mat covers the floor of the playroom and about 30 wooden cribs line the perimeter and form rows in the other room. The toddlers were entertaining each other and a few infants were having a late morning nap in the crib room.

I was able to take a photo of one crib in the back and center of the perimeter. This is where Ava slept for the past 2 years. I looked at the empty crib for about 10 seconds and just though how much I wanted to hug Ava instantly. While I feel the nannies truly do their best to provide love and stimulation I was shocked by the facilities and the conditions. Richard told me by his comparison this place was fairly typical. Having seen Ava’s past I expected to be done here and move on. But, there was more.

Up to floor 3 and down another hall where the staff folks moved into place and 15-20 children ages 2-8 were assembled smarty in their chairs. The all shouted a greeting in unison and I nodded and waived. The director explained the stories of some of the children. Some have been here their entire life. At least two healthy handsome 7 year-old boys were recently abandoned.

On floor 4 we met an active group of a dozen children dancing with the direction of their teacher. This group lined up in formation from tallest to shortest. They shouted an in unison “good morning” (in Chinese). I repeated the same back and they all clapped. I thought hey, they understood my Chinese…then Mr. Zhou told me these were the deaf children. They were very curious to see me, but timid. I crouched down and gave one little guy a high 5 then the rush was on. I was instantly surrounded with children laughing and reaching out to touch me and get a high 5. One fella stroked my forearm and pulled on the hair apparently intrigued.

After leaving the orphanage we took a short drive to Ava’s finding spot outside the Xiangfan City Civil Bureau main gate. I met the Civil Affairs Director. She explained that it is common that for babies to be abandoned at the gate with hope to be found. The gate is the office entrance off of a single lane tree lined road. I saw only one car drive down the road while we were there. I can imagine under cover of darkness how an abandonment could occur undetected here.

The entourage continued onto lunch, now adding the Civil Affairs Director and an assistant. I was “quizzed” by the Civil Affairs Director on my impressions of the orphanage, how a baby who looks “different” will fit into our family, and why we are adopting. My answers ranged from some tongue biting to reciting the “Great American Melting Pot” theme from schoolhouse rock circa 1977. The group was gracious and open to answering my questions as well. After lunch we drove around the ancient Xiangfan City wall and through the old center of town.

I have given my best objective observations of the orphanage. I acknowledge that the narrative lacks analysis, critical commentary and my emotions. I have mixed feelings about today and many visceral emotions that are difficult to express so soon. My thoughts simply appear as word clusters I compiled in a notebook on the bus ride back to Wuhan. It shall have to suffice to say I’m a bit numbed by what I saw during this uncomfortable but necessary outing.

Good night.